Wednesday, January 11, 2012

ROMANIAN DESIGNERS



Gathered under the name ROMANIAN DESIGNERS, a group of designers from Romania will present their Autumn/Winter 2012/13 collections for the third subsequent season at the Berlin Fashion Week. Renowned designer Irina Schrotter will present her collection with an individual runway show on Thursday, January 19, at 4:30 PM, whereas young talents such as Lena Criveanu, Lucian Broscatean and the label twenty(2)too will hold a group runway show on Saturday, January 21, at 11:30 PM.

Collections by ROMANIAN DESIGNERS will be presented to fashion professionals in a collective stand at the Premium trade show. Alongside the ready-to-wear collections, shoe designer Mihaela Glavan and the exclusive accessories of the label D’or by Roxana Dacidescu will also be shown to industry professionals. In addition, emerging designer Adelina Ivan will show her collection at the trade show for the first time in Germany, the label Patzaikin will have its international debut, twenty(2)too will present their creations at  Seek, and street wear label Bold fashion will show at Bright.

Renowned Romanian designer Irina Schotter will present her collection in an individual runway show this season. The new collection is a step away from Schotter’s feminine silhouettes of past seasons, and surprises with experimental cuts and avant-garde nuances. Schotter creates a fascinating and unexpected mélange using various fabrics, materials and geometrical forms in autumnal hues.

Lucian Broscatean, Lena Criveanu and the label twenty(2)too make up the ROMANIAN DESIGNERS this season. Lucian Broscatean remains true to his signature style and is inspired, as in previous seasons too, by an Arthouse film, this time by the Quay brothers. The collection “Dream Map” reflects the film’s bizarre characters and hypnotizing atmosphere: full of contrasts, using natural cotton fabrics and light woven fabrics with wool and felt, the creations are mixed and draped masterfully.

Elegance and femininity take center stage in Lena Criveanu’s collection “In Tango Step.” Inspired by the emotional depth expressed in this sophisticated dance style, Criveanu interweaves it with 1950s-inspired silhouettes and her penchant for the filigree, feminine shape of an orchid. She uses mostly wool and silk with accents and details in faux fur. With colors, ranging from pink, vanilla and cream, she musters the interplay of vigor and reticence.

Next to these already known designers, the street wear label twenty(2)too will present its collection “Victoire: la mort lente de l’esprit” for the first time. Designer Mihai Dan Zarug created his very personal interpretation of the surrealist melancholy in the film by Claude Chabrol that the collection is named after. The color palette of the unisex collection is monochromatic.

Wool, satin, leather and Japanese organic denim join together to construct the contrasting mixture of tight fit designs and oversized, loose fit items. 





Irina Schrotter







Lena Criveanu







Lucian Broscatean




twenty(2)too






Patzaikin

and




Lucian Broscatean


DREAM MAP

AW 2012/2013


Lucian Broscatean’s Dream Map collection draws its inspiration from the poetic yet unsettling story lines of Quay Brothers movies, such as „Institute Benjamenta, or this dream people call life.“ The film’s bizarre characters and uncanny dream sequences are some of the conceptual themes explored by the designer. Pleats and shadow plays are brought about through combinations of heavy and light materials, clear cuts and geometrical forms, reflecting the landscapes and morphologies appearing in the film’s dream sequences.

Black and white make up the main colors of the collection. Long cotton shirts come in geometric shapes and monochromatic combinations, their open hemlines reaching far beyond the black trousers, which, due to triangular applications, have a taste of riding pants to them. Worn with long overcoats with angular creases, the black, spiral hats of Gabriela Dumitran and the prominent rubber soles of Mihaela Glavan shoes, a complete urban and modern shepherd look is conjured up, transporting the signature traditional Romanian garb into the now.

Lucian Broscatean has been presenting his collections regularly since 2008 to international industry professionals: during Romanian fashion week, the Romanian pavilion at the 2010 Expo in Shanghai , and since spring 2011, at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Broscatean deals with the discrepancies between tradition and mobility, nomadic life style and urban forms. He draws his inspiration from films, architecture and modern dance. 



Lucian Broscatean






Lena Criveanu


Tango in Step

AW 2012/2013


Elegance and femininity take center stage in Lena Criveanu’s Autumn/Winter 2012/13 collection “In Tango Step.” As the name suggests, the collection is inspired by the emotional intensity expressed in this sophisticated dance style. Criveanu interweaves its dramatic tones with 1950s-inspired silhouettes and her penchant for the filigree, feminine shape of an orchid.


The collection includes complete looks as well as easy to combine outfits: maxi and midi dresses and robes, overcoats, pants, blouses, skirts and various accessories.
Criveanu uses mostly wool and silk in different styles, combined with accents and details in faux fur and floral prints. The form fitting waist and feminine curvatures are reminiscent of classic women’s wear of past decades, integrated however in contemporaneous designs and materials. With colors, ranging from pink, vanilla and cream, Criveanu musters the delicate interplay of vigor and reticence characteristic of tango.

Lena Criveanu presented her first collection under her own label in 2006 in Bucharest. Only two years later, she showed in Paris and New York, and Berlin. Lena Criveanu explores the artisanal techniques of traditional Romanian garbs and funnels these traditions into her signature modern and romantic aesthetic. Although craftsmanship and technique are extremely important to Criveanu, her approach is always highly conceptual and her creations can be referred to as an amalgam of fashion, performance art and sculpture.


Lena Criveanu








twenty(2)too


Victoire: la mort lente de l’esprit

AW 2012/2013


The current collection by twenty(2)too, entitled Victoire: la mort lente de l’esprit, is characterized by designer Mihai Dan Zarug’s very personal approach to fashion. Inspired by the dark atmosphere of Claude Chabrol’s film, Zarug reworks the ups and downs of his personal life in this highly unique collection, as well as the pressing urge for freedom, and the need for individuality and self-assertion. 

The forms appear to be rigid at first, an impression that is quickly loosened through the soft, fine materials used, such as lamb Nappa and water resistant wool. The clothes create a second skin—not only metaphorically speaking—that protects the wearer from environmental influences.

Black dominates the collection, which is characterized by various materials and layering on jackets, shirts and trousers, and where leather and silk come against wool and cotton. The wide torsos call forth the shape of a masculine armor, juxtaposed by rather feminine cuts and pleats. These are then joined together with form fitting pants to create an unusual and ambivalent look. White collars and light colored elastic connections complement the dark color palette of twenty(2)too.

Mihai Dan Zarug presented his first collection under the name twenty(2)too in 2010, and the Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 collection is his first presentation within the ROMANIAN DESIGNERS show at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Zarug believes that fashion exists outside of the wearer’s gender - it’s all in the eye of the beholder. 

Special thanks to our friends: Mihaela Glavan & Sepala for the shoes and DJ BogMan for the music.



twenty(2)too